Wings

Left aileron riveting

Well, that was a lot of fun. Assembling the ailerons starts off deceptively easily: you attach the nose ribs to the counterweight with blind rivets. Then the nose skin goes on, followed by the trailing edge skin, and this is where the fun begins. The top of the trailing edge skin is attached to the nose skin and spar with solid rivets, but even with the bottom of the skin not clecoed to the spar, access to the inside is pretty tight. I must have spent half an hour just trying to figure out how to position the aileron so I could get the riveting done. In the end, my solution came from reading Jamie Painter’s build log, not my own ingenuity. You just put the aileron on end and now you can (relatively) naturally access both sides:

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Even so, bucking has to be done by feel. But I got the hang of it pretty quickly, until I got to a rivet that was close enough to a stiffener that I couldn’t use the tungsten bucking bar. It took three tries to rivet that thing, and I ended up having to draft Josie to hold a flashlight and hold the skin while I worked. Removing the first two bad rivets marred the skin around the rivet head too, but hey, that’s what paint’s for…anyway, getting that one stupid rivet took probably half an hour total. But finally, I had all those top rivets done:

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I’d kind of hoped to get this thing finished tonight, but oh well. It wasn’t for lack of trying, that’s for sure. The good news is that things should be easy from here on out; the rest of the rivets on the aileron are either accessible with a squeezer or are blind rivets. I imagine I’ll have this thing wrapped up pretty quickly tomorrow, and hopefully riveting the left aileron will go faster now that I’ve worked out the technique for the most part.

Posted in Ailerons, Wings | Hours Logged: 2.5

Finished left aileron

And once again, not the most productive day. I had held out some slim hope of priming flap components today, but that was obviously not workable, given how much prep I still have to do on that stuff. So rather than try to do that, I went back to the left aileron. I’d been under the impression before that it’d be really simple to finish this thing up, and that was kind of true, but as usual there were some small things that slowed the process down.

With the top skin/spar joint riveted, the next step is to install the end ribs. There’s a specific riveting order in the instructions for this part of the assembly which I neither remember exactly nor care enough to go look at the instructions to relate. Once you start working on rivets on the bottom, though, it’s important to secure the aileron to a flat surface to keep it straight. The instructions call for weighing the aileron down, but I didn’t have anything good for this purpose. Since the aileron naturally sat nice and flat on the surface, I just took a short piece of scrap wood and lightly clamped the trailing edge down to the surface. Then I just kept checking that the aileron was sitting flat during the following steps.

Aileron secured on the flat surface:

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Before long, a lot of rivets had been squeezed and pulled and I had a finished aileron:

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Next, I installed the hinge brackets, torqued the fasteners, and added torque seal:

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This part of the process took way longer than I expected. As seems to be common, access to the bolt heads was limited, especially on the forward side. At one point I tried turning an old deep socket into a thin wall socket with the bench grinder, but it didn’t work out too well. I eventually ended up holding the bolt heads with an adjustable wrench,

Now, where to store this thing? I guess I’ll just temporarily attach it to the wing. I just put the bolts through the brackets and lightly installed a lock nut; I haven’t bothered with the various washer stickups and spacers that will be in place for the real assembly, though I’ll need those before I can get to fitting the flaps down the road.

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At this point I broke for dinner, and after that it had cooled off rapidly in the garage, so I called it a night. Tomorrow I should be able to finish the right aileron and get to some flap work.

Posted in Ailerons, Wings | Hours Logged: 3

Right aileron, pushrod fiasco

Did all the riveting on the right aileron today. It sure goes a lot faster the second time around… I did have a heart-stopping moment while riveting the top spar-skin rivets though. As before, I had the aileron standing up on end, and I was almost done, just three rivets left to go. I turned to grab another rivet, and when I turned back, there was my aileron, toppling ungracefully over. Unmindful of my cries of dismay, it rebounded off my work stool and plunked to the concrete. Fortunately, it was undamaged. I figure that between the stool breaking its fall a bit and it landing on the nose skin – which was reinforced by the counterweight – I got off lucky.

There are a lot of blind rivets in the ailerons, which means a lot of rivet stems left over after everything is done:

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Once I had the aileron done, I mounted on the wing as with the left one. Next I went to work putting the appropriate washers and spacer in place at the hinge points. The outboard hinges are easy, requiring only washers, but the wider inboard brackets require a spacer to be fabricated from aluminum tubing. This isn’t a complex process, but it is painstaking, carefully shortening the cut piece of tubing to the proper length for a snug fit.

Here’s the inboard bracket and the washer and spacers and such in place:

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Both ailerons in place on the wings:

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Next I decided to work on the aileron pushrods. I started with the shorter rods, which connect the bell cranks to the ailerons themselves. These pushrods are made from steel tubing, with rod ends riveted into the ends. I spent a fair amount of time carefully cutting the provided tubing to length and then laying out the rivet hole locations – no prepunched holes here! After drilling everything, it was time to rivet.

Riveting these pushrods seems to be a frequent source of consternation for builders. The rivets are very prone to folding over when driven, making for ugly shop heads. I chose to use shorter rivets than the plans call for, and I figured it couldn’t be that bad…wrong. The first rivet I tried with the squeezer clinched in nasty fashion:

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The problem was immediately obvious: I’d tried this with the squeezer held in the vise and me holding the rod in my hand. I imagine the rod rotated a bit when squeezing. That wasn’t too smart of a way to do this.

I decided that there was no way to hold the squeezer and the rod steady for this procedure, so I decided to try the rivet gun instead. I clamped the pushrod in the vise with the rivet as close to the jaws as possible. This worked great on the first two rivets, and for a moment I thought I’d cracked the code.

Nope…the next two clinched despite me being really careful with the bucking bar. So I drilled those out and then decided to call it a night. I was getting into the mindset where I really wanted to solve a problem, at the expense of really thinking through the options. That’s the kind of mindset where I tend to make problems worse.

So I’m not really sure how I’ll handle this. I’ve seen where guys have set the rivets using a C-frame, but I don’t see how that will make the rivets any less likely to clinch. The plans mention the option of welding the rod ends, which I guess I could do, though it seems kind of ghetto to do that after drilling the rivet holes. Another couple of builders have addressed the issue of the rivets bending inside the hollow rod end by filling the rod ends with something like JB Weld to hold the rivets better. I thought about doing that, but it’ll be a little messy since I already drilled the rivet holes.

So who knows…we’ll see.

 

 

Posted in Ailerons, Wings | Hours Logged: 6.5

Flap deburring, pushrod fixup

After giving myself a day to think about it, I decided to go ahead with the idea of filling the remaining rod ends with epoxy. The main thing that had kept me from doing this last night was worrying about the rivet holes. I didn’t want to totally fill the rod ends and then have to drill those holes again; to me, that was just asking for a misdrill and who knows what kind of ugliness.

So the plan I came up with was to basically cast the rivet holes in place, as it were. First, I set aside six of the AD4-12 rivets. These are the rivets called out for the pushrod ends, but they’re too long and so I’m not going to use them anyway. I coated each rivet with a thin layer of car wax to act as a release agent. After all, I don’t want to permanently install the rivets at this stage! Next, I mixed up a batch of epoxy, stuffed each rod end with epoxy, and then inserted the waxed rivets into each hole. Finally, I cleaned up the squeezed-out epoxy as best I could.

The end result:

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Once that epoxy hardens, it should provide some extra support for the rivet shaft and hopefully prevent the shaft from buckling during riveting and contributing to the clinching problems I had.

With those sitting aside to cure, I got out the flap components and went to work preparing them. I knocked down the edges of the inboard reinforcements with a vixen file, then finished polishing the edges on the bench grinder. Then I sat down with the ribs and spars and took care of deburring all the holes.

I suppose I should shoot an email or phone call to Van’s to see if my fuse kit shipped yet, and if they can get me the tracking info. I’m kind of surprised that they don’t notify you of the shipment without being asked; I figure most people probably prefer to have more than a couple days advance notice of the delivery date so they can arrange to be home, or on my case, to go pick up the kit.

I also gave Grove a call last Friday and it sounds like my gear legs should ship out in the next couple of weeks. I’m about to be up to my ears in airplane parts…

Posted in Flaps, Wings | Hours Logged: 2.5

Pushrods done

Not a lot of time tonight, but I figured I’d see if I could get the pushrods done. The epoxy was cured nicely, now to get those rivets out:

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That turned out to be a fun exercise. I was able to get all the rivets moving in their holes with a little touch from the rivet gun, but extracting them was a little more difficult. As usual, the first one took quite some time to get out, but then I had a system down and the other five came out in no time. I was pleased to find that shooting the rivets now was a cakewalk, with hardly any tendency to clinch. The resulting heads aren’t the best I’ve ever done, but perfectly adequate:

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Next, as a precaution, I decided to shoot some primer on the ends of the pushrods. Cutting the rods to length had removed some of the powder coat, and I’d also seen some flakes coming out from under the rivet shop heads as I shot them, so better safe than sorry. I wrapped the threaded portion in masking tape and went to town:

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I like how fast the 7220 primer dries. Ten minutes later and I ripped the making tape off and installed the rod ends and jam nuts:

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After that, I may have pinned one of the pushrods to an aileron and then moved the rod so I could watch the aileron move. This is strictly a rumor, totally unconfirmed…

In other news, my minor griping last night about Van’s not notifying of shipments was premature. Today I got a notification from Old Dominion with my shipment info, including a tracking number. Now I get to spend my time refreshing the tracking page three times a day. I imagine I should have the kit early next week. I won’t have the flaps done by then – I’m out of town at least one day this weekend – but that’s okay. I suspect some serious garage reorganization is going to be in order once we start unpacking the fuse kit.

Posted in Ailerons, Wings | Hours Logged: 1

More pushrods

Rather than mess with deburring flap skins – which I won’t be able to do any priming on this weekend anyway – I decided to go ahead and build the second set of aileron pushrods tonight. These are the long pushrods that will run between the bell cranks in the wings and the control stick in the cockpit. These are simpler to make than the other ones as well; instead of small-diameter steel tubes with solid rivets, these are fairly large-diameter aluminum tubes and the ends attach with blind rivets.

Once I’d cut the rod stock to length and marked and center-punched the hole locations, I got Josie to come out and hold one end of the tube while I drilled the pilot holes in the drill press. Next I inserted the threaded ends, lined them up carefully, and drilled all the holes out to full-size, clecoing as I went:

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Some quick deburring of everything and then it was just squeezing a bunch of blind cherry rivets. Afterwards, I couldn’t resist the urge to install a bellcrank and both pushrods, just so I could sit at the wing root, move the pushrod, and watch the aileron move:

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The next time I do some priming, I’ll go ahead and shoot the outside of these rods as well. I figured it was easier in this case to just prime after assembly instead of before.

Posted in Ailerons, Wings | Hours Logged: 2

Fuselage organization, bit of flap prep

OK, so a lot of stuff going on today, didn’t have a lot of time in the garage. I did run out to Harbor Freight to pick up another storage case, which now contains some of the bagged small parts that would fit in the little bin inserts. The rest of the smaller parts still live in a cardboard box under the workbench. Hopefully it won’t be too horribly tough to find stuff when I need it.

I also spent a little time remembering where I was on the flaps and getting back to work. I deburred the holes in the hinge halves and the edges of the spars. The weather is looking good for tomorrow (after a monsoon day today), so I’m thinking tomorrow I’ll try and finish prepping the flap parts and get them primed. All I really have left before I can prime is to edge finish the ribs and dimple/countersink the ribs and spars. I’ll try an get an early start tomorrow for a good long day of work.

No photos today, not much to see.

Posted in Flaps, Fuselage, Wings | Hours Logged: 2

Flap prep and priming

Whew…now that was a good day’s work. Since the weather was nice, my primary goal was to finish prepping the flap components so I could shoot primer. First order of business was to countersink the bottom spar flange where it mated with the hinge half. But first I wanted to figure out the final length of the hinge half (I knew it wasn’t the full length of the spar), which in turn meant doing a rough fit-up on the wing. The flap is positioned 1/4” from the aileron…so now I needed to be sure the aileron was located correctly before doing anything else. I’d followed the plans for the washer stickups at the hinges, but an examination of the wingtip showed that the outboard edge of the aileron wasn’t aligned with the outboard edge of the top skin. Was that intentional or not? A look at the plans seemed to show this misalignment, and to make double sure, I pulled down a wingtip and held it in place to get a look at how everything lined up.

So finally, I was convinced that it was OK to position the flap off the aileron. I made a 1/4” spacer out of two paint stirrers glued together, lined the flap spar and aileron up, and marked three hinge tooth segments to remove from the inboard end. The other flap spar came out the same way (as it should have), and finally I was able to proceed with the countersinking. Then I dimpled all the other spar flange holes along with the ribs. 

I was taking a final look at the inboard reinforcement pieces when I noticed a small imperfection right beside one of the rivet holes. At first I tried buffing it out with the scotchbrite wheel, but it seemed to be surprisingly deep. Eventually I realized what it was – a center punch mark. Apparently when I drilled this hole, the drill bit wandered far enough that the original punch mark was still there:

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Probing it with a punch, I verified it was quite deep. In any other area, I’d remove some material until the mark was gone, but here, that would mean impinging on the rivet hole, which I wasn’t comfortable doing. And I didn’t want to just leave the mark either. Fortunately, there was enough of the original angle material left to just make a replacement, so that was what I did. All in all, it was pretty straightforward, only cost me about half an hour or so.

Finally, I was able to go clean all my parts. In addition to the flap parts, I cleaned the aileron pushrods, which also needed a coat of primer. I worked up a fun bit of redneck engineering to hold the pushrods for priming. Basically I just stuck a 3/16” dowel in each end, then stuck the dowels through holes in the saw horses. This gave me access to shot the whole pushrod without it resting on anything:

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After a whole lot of time in the driveway, I had a nice bunch of primed ribs:

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Next I figured I’d start deburring the flap skins, so I started pulling off the blue plastic. I’d read before that it was necessary to be careful while doing this, lest you accidentally bend your piece. Well, I think I was probably daydreaming about how careful I needed to be when I did this:

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Urgh. That’s the little bend at the very leading edge of the top skin, resulting in a slight bow to the curved portion which fits under the trailing edge of the top main wing skin. Thankfully, fixing it wasn’t that difficult. I clecoed the spar in place to apply some straightening force to the skin, then went to work on the creased area with a hammer and wood block, along with some hand seamers to apply some targeted force. The end result looks practically good as new:

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Finally, I went to work deburring the rivet holes in the skins. That seemed like a good stopping point for a good day’s work, so I quit. That just leaves deburring the edges of the flap skins and dimpling them, and then it’ll be time to do some riveting. And then I’ll be closer to getting rolling on the fuselage!

Posted in Flaps, Wings | Hours Logged: 8

More flap prep

Short night tonight. I got out the die grinder and went to work on the edges of the flap skins. Turned out to be a kind of tedious job what with all the odd bends and such, but not too horrible. I decided not to go ahead and dimple the skins; for one thing, it was about 11 by this time, and for another, I think I want to roll the edge where the top skin overlaps the bottom. I’ll do a bit of research before I decide to do that though.

I wasn’t quite ready to quit, so I decided to test-fit the two piano hinge halves for the flaps and figure out where to cut each half…in half. The instructions give two options for dealing with the hinge pin here; the first is to leave each hinge half in one piece, use a single pin for the entire flap, and drill a hole in the aileron bracket to allow for removing the pin for maintenance and such. The second option is to use two shorter pins, with a gap in the middle of the flap; in this case, the pins are removed from that center gap. I’m going to do the latter option, since it means not having to disconnect the aileron every time I need to remove the flap. That explanation probably doesn’t clarify much, but it should make more sense once I have some assembly photos later on.

Once again, no photos tonight.

Posted in Flaps, Wings | Hours Logged: 1.5

Flap dimpling and initial riveting

Whee, time to break out the C-frame! Well, actually, first I got out the edge rolling tool and put a little roll in the edge of the top skins that will overlap the bottom skins. Then, since I already had the squeezer out with the dimple dies in it, I dimpled the spots that weren’t good for the C-frame. Then I went back and C-framed the majority of the rivet holes.

Dimpled skins:

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I didn’t really intend to start doing any riveting tonight, but I figured I’d at least read over the instructions and get an idea of the procedure. I’ve seen where other builders weren’t happy with how the instructions are here, and at first glance, I agree. The instructions basically just say to cleco everything together minus the spar, then start riveting the skins to the ribs. But doing it that way would remove access to rivet the internal ribs to the pseudo spar on the bottom skin.

So far, I think my general plan will be to first rivet the internal ribs to the bottom skin with the top skin not in place. This will allow good access to shoot the skin rivets and squeeze the spar rivets. Next I can cleco the top skin in place and shoot those skin-rib rivets. The rivets joining the top and bottom skins should be lots of fun, there’s not much space to get in there and buck. I’ve seen others use a back rivet plate as a bucking bar back there; I guess that’s probably what I’ll try to do.

I clecoed the internal ribs to the bottom skin while thinking this through. Oh look, here’s a picture:

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At this point, I decided to instead go ahead and rivet the reinforcement plates to the spars and inboard end ribs. Fairly straightforward stuff here, though I came frighteningly close to riveting the spar reinforcement to the wrong side of the spar when I did the first one…

Inboard spar ends with reinforcement angles:

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Inboard ribs with reinforcement plates, also showing the nutplate inside the rib where the actuator will attach:

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And now I’m going to do some research to get a better handle on how to approach riveting. Hopefully I can get started on that tomorrow night…

Posted in Flaps, Wings | Hours Logged: 2