Well, that’s it. I think these things are done with the exception of the baffles.

I started out the night by working on the inboard sender plates. I had figured that these might be a bit of a pain, and I was right. The main issue is that the final work on these things has to be done within the confines of a tank bay. First, the wires from the outboard plate and the inboard terminal are pulled into the second bay and cut to length. Next they get stripped and crimped into a ring terminal – this was a lot of fun. Stripping the wires was easy, but getting my crimpers way in there while not pulling the terminal off the wires was quite a challenge. This was especially difficult since the tight quarters made it tough to squeeze the things with sufficient force to get a good crimp. I was glad an extra terminal came with the kit, since I failed in my first crimp attempt.

With those guys crimped, now they had to be attached to the plates. This was even more fun – trying to manipulate a stubby Phillips screwdriver and a combination wrench at arm’s length inside that bay. I found that I could reliably turn the screwdriver about 1/8 of a turn without it slipping off the screw, so needless to say, tightening those things was rather tedious.

With the terminals secure, I mixed up a couple ounces of sealant and put it in a bag for application. More fun here – I needed to coat the exposed terminals in sealant, once again in the tight space. I did the best I could to squirt a liberal amount of sealant on each terminal, then I smeared it all over the place with a gloved finger. I set the bag of sealant aside for later use and mounted the plates to the ribs.

The last step was to get out the multimeter and check for good continuity in the circuit. The general principle of the capacitive senders is that the tank structure acts as one half of the capacitor, and is grounded to the outside of the BNC connector. The sender plates act as the otter half, and are wired to the center terminal of the connector. So the expectation is that the plates have continuity with each other and the center terminal, and no continuity with the tank structure. Similarly, the structure should have continuity with the outside of the connector. All of these checked out (whew!).

One inboard plate, mounted in place:

I also added dabs of sealant along the wire run to hold it to the vent line, and also on the snap bushings to prevent rotation:

I used the rest of the mixed sealant to cover all the shop heads on the end ribs. I did some research on this and the results were unsurprising: Some builders felt it was unnecessary, while others took a “can’t hurt” approach. I agreed with the “can’t hurt” folks, so the heads got coated:

Finally, I unscrewed the B-nut between the vent lines and their bulkhead fittings, coated the fittings with fuel lube, and then reinstalled the B-nuts and torqued them. And that, my friends, completes the tank internal stuff. I’ll probably do a final inspection of everything tomorrow night, just in case anything needs touching up, but I don’t expect any problems.

For the last picture of the night, here’s a family photo:

Now to decide what to do with the rest of the week. Do I take a few evenings off and relax, or start looking at leading edge stuff? I’m very ready to work on stuff that doesn’t involve sealant…

Whew…I’m finally getting there! I got out to the garage around midday today and started by removing most of the clecos, cleaning out the holes, and then I mixed the sealant and got down to riveting. Things went well for the most part, except that I had some problems with the squeezer sliding around, and I ended up with a fair number of clinched rivets like this: (note: there were some much worse than this, I took this picture mainly because it was the best-lit example)

So after I had Josie come out and help me rivet the forward attach bracket, I took a little break and then went back to inspect the rivets. I ended up marking about fifteen or so that I felt were bad enough to merit replacing, and those got drilled out.  Many of the holes ended up oversize; I suspect this was the problem from the start, since oversize holes can easily promote clinching like this. So I ended up drilling out to #30 and using NAS oversize rivets in most of the drilled-out holes. Tougher to squeeze, but they set nicely and now I can live with the state of the tanks.

Meanwhile my first batch of sealant had cured to the point that it was unusable, so I mixed up a new small batch to use replacing the rivets. That, in turn, meant I had some surplus left over afterwards. This worked out well; I still needed to encapsulate all the shop heads on the nose reinforcement rivets. I had just enough to put a good dab on all of those guys.

One thing I’m debating now is whether to encapsulate the shop heads on the end ribs. These are outside of the tank itself, so they won’t be exposed to fuel, and thus it’s probably OK to skip them. On the other hand, on the off chance any fuel is able to get between the rib and the skin, sealant on the shop heads could be a last line of defense to prevent a leak. I guess I’ll see what other builders have done, and if I’m still on the fence, I’ll go with the old “it’s cheap, don’t be skimpy” line.

So these things are almost done! This week I just need to finish the wiring for the fuel senders and torque the vent line fittings, and I imagine I’ll do a final inspection of the tank internals. Maybe Thursday and Friday evenings I can do my water leak tests, and Saturday I can get rolling on the baffles.

Oh, and here’s one more picture. It doesn’t show anything I built really; it’s actually the big empty shelf space where all these wing and tank ribs used to live. The pile of parts is gradually getting smaller!

Well, not a lot to report tonight. We had things going on in the morning, and then I may have taken a nap when we got home, but I finally did get out later in the evening to get the end ribs sealed and clecoed in place. The fun part about this task isn’t so much the sealing, but the cleanup afterwards. I’ve been more liberal with the sealant on these ribs, since in my mind they’re more critical then the interior ribs. As a result, there’s a lot more squeeze-out, and thus a lot more to clean up, especially since I don’t want any buildup in the outboard end of the tank to interfere with the fit later on.

Anyway, that’s it for tonight. Not a lot to take pictures of, so no photos tonight. Tomorrow I rivet these things in and maybe try and get the fuel sender plates in place. That should give me this week for any touch-up tasks, and to let the sealant cure, and then I can do my water leak test late this week and then finally get these baffles in place!

The more time I spend on this stuff, the funnier it is to think I once imagined I’d do the end ribs of both tanks, plus the internal wiring and plumbing, all in one evening after work. Fortunately, though, the right tank is almost there – all that’s left to do is to install the inboard sender plate and finalize the wiring and so forth.
Nothing really complicated went down tonight, just sort of rote work. I pulled out around 2/3 of the clecos, cleaned out the holes, hit the dimples with a countersink bit, cleaned, dabbed in sealant, and squeezed the rivets, then repeated with the remaining rivets. It was a nice change to just use the squeezer on these instead of the rivet gun. Next up was the forward tank attach bracket; I just smeared sealant onto the contacting surface with a popsicle stick like I was icing a cake, then clecoed it in place. I recruited Josie’s help to bang those six rivets, since it was a bit of a stretch to both shoot and buck while working at the extreme front of the tank.
From there, I installed the flop tube, the remaining anti-hangup guide, and the little trapdoor, adding sealant strategically to help hold a few items in place. (I think I’ve come to the point of thinking that sealant makes everything better. Some kind of weird Stockholm Syndrome or something.)
I would have liked to have done the sender plate tonight as well, but I checked the time after doing the trapdoor and it was already midnight! Time to turn in for the night for sure. I think my new goal is to try to have both tanks done this weekend, with the exception of the baffles. That’ll give the sealant a week or more to cure, and I can do the gross water leak test next weekend before finally closing these things out.
Anyway, it’s photo time. Here’s a tank with no clecos:

Close-up of the forward attach bracket with the flop tube bulkhead fitting going through it:

Wide view of the inboard bay, where all the crazy stuff is at:

Close-up of the trapdoor and outboard anti-hangup guide:

And the flop tube bulkhead fitting from the inside:

Whew! Now to see if I can get the sender in place tomorrow night. Or maybe I’ll go ahead and do the end ribs for the left tank tomorrow, and save the sender plates on both tanks for a single sort of “final stuff” session.

Well, the main thing I learned/concluded tonight is that I won’t be closing the tanks this weekend – at least not both of them. I think the best-case scenario is that the right tank might be ready for the water test Saturday or Sunday. This isn’t because I broke anything, just that I once again overestimated how much I can get done in the evenings after work.

I did realize earlier today that I made a mistake though – when I installed the outboard fuel sender plates last night, I forgot the little nylon tubing spacers that surround the screws to ensure they’re electrically isolated from the ribs. So first thing when I got out today, I got to put those in. At least I was able to do it without totally removing the plates; I was able to remove one screw at a time, insert the spacer, and then reinstall the screw. Bit tedious, but far better than completely removing and reinstalling the plates.

Next, it was time to address the end ribs. I was already beginning to suspect at this point that my goal of installing and riveting all the end ribs tonight was horribly optimistic, so I reduced my goal to only doing the end ribs for one tank. I was still intending, though, to just wet seal the rivets instead of doing the whole fay sealing thing – but that didn’t go so well. It didn’t take long to put a bead of sealant on each rib and get them in place, although getting them align was a bit of a pain. I put a cleco in every third hole or so, intending to rivet in between and then remove the clecos. I even got so far as to dab extra sealant into the dimples where needed, but when I tried to put the rivets in their holes, I had a fair amount of trouble. I don’t know if the holes are a little undersized or slight misaligned or what, but they’re going to need a little work before I can rivet.

It was getting late at this point anyway, so I removed all the rivets I’d tried to insert and reverted to the fay seal method. I 100% clecoed, and then went to work smoothing out a good fillet with the squeezed-out sealant. Cleanup was a little more fun for several reasons: first, the way these ribs go in kind of smears sealant around anyway, and I also wanted to clean up all the excess sealant from the outboard tank skin, outside of the rib. This area will overlap the joint plate by the leading edge, and I don’t want any sealant buildup here to affect the fit there.

So I guess tomorrow night I’ll clean up the holes as necessary and wet set the rivets. If I can get the rest of the sealing in the right tank done tomorrow, then I’ll have three days of curing in by Sunday, so maybe I can do the water test then. Even that might be a stretch though – in addition to setting the rivets, I’ll have to finish the wiring for the fuel senders, which has to be done inside the tank itself, and that terminal has to get sealed once it’s finalized. At this point, I should probably just resign myself to another weekend going by before I’m ready to close these things out. I know I’m just dealing with arbitrary goals I’m setting rather than true setbacks, but boy, does it ever feel like sealing these things is an endless job.

Here’s the inboard rib in place with the sealant and so forth:

Tonight I wanted to get the vent lines and fuel sender plates in place, and maybe the outboard end ribs if possible. I started out by inserting the snap bushings and routing the vent lines in both tanks. Next I installed the outboard sender plates (an operation which requires about five hands) and routed the wire from the outboard plate along the vent line run. The vent lines needed to be bent a touch at the outboard end to go through the clips under the gas caps, but that was no trouble. Once I had them roughly in place, I clecoed the inboard end rib in place and screwed the vent line to the bulkhead fitting. This finalized the location of the vent line, and I fixed the line in place by mixing up a bit of sealant and dabbing it around where the vent line goes through the gas cap clip.

Since I still had some sealant mixed up, I decided to go ahead and put the access plate on as well. I hadn’t scuffed these mating surfaces, so that was step 1, followed by a good acetone cleaning. For this application, I put a bead of sealant both on the rib and the access plate. I also swirled a bit of sealant on the tip of each screw before installing it, which gave me a nice sealant bead at the base of each screw. There shouldn’t be any issues with leaking around these guys:

A brief comic aside while I’m on the access covers: some of the nutplates had sealant built up in them, so I wanted to run a #40 drill through them to break up the buildup. When drilling like this, I’m used to holding the drill bit lightly with the fingers of my left hand to help guide it. Turns out that doing this wile wearing nitrile gloves can result in a pretty amusing tangle situation:

Finally, here’s a shot of one of the outboard sender plates:

I didn’t install the inboard plate yet because I’ll have to solder and crimp the ring terminal in place after I run the wire from the inboard end rib. That should be lots of fun. Tomorrow I’m going to shoot for getting the end ribs installed and wet riveted. I read an interesting idea for an early leak test, wherein you fill the tanks with water prior to installing the baffles. It’s not a perfect test, since fuel is less dense than water and can probably seep through bad spots better than water, but it’s still a way to maybe identify trouble spots and fix them before the tank’s closed – at which point fixing leaks might require creating some new access plates in the baffle. Thing is, the sealant needs to be decently cured first. I’m hoping that if I get everything riveted tomorrow night, then three days of sitting in a warm Houston garage will cure the sealant enough for me to do the water test on Saturday.

Well, lots of stuff to do around the house today, but I did manage to get out and put in a couple hours of work. I did a thorough inspection of the sealant I put around the shop heads last night, and in several cases massaged the blob around with my finger to get better coverage. About ten or so rivets needed extra attention (i.e. more sealant), so I marked their location as I went. Then I mixed up a small batch of sealant and touched up those rivets. There were also come locations between the rib flanges and the skin where I didn’t feel I had good sealant coverage, so I touched up several of those as well. I really don’t want these things to leak.

This should free me up to work on the interior stuff after work this week – which really isn’t that much, just routing the vent lines and installing the fuel sender plates. I should be able to get the end ribs in this week, and then this weekend really should be the time that I close these out.

Not much to take pictures of today, but here are both tanks on the workbench:

So yeah, that whole notion of maybe closing the tanks this weekend didn’t work out. It probably would have been a stretch anyway, but Josie had a really crazy week at work and worked later every night (sometimes into the early morning hours). So she wasn’t able to help me rivet at all during the week.

Today, however, we finally went to town and finished the skin riveting, including replacing all the rivets I drilled out of the left tank. Once that was done, I used the leftover mixed sealant to seal up the nose rib regions in the left tank, and also to get the tank drains in place. I didn’t bother with the fay sealing stuff for those; while it was messier, there were only six rivets each, so no big deal. Before putting the drains in place, I pushed a wad of masking tape inside the drain hole. I’d read about guys using Q-tips to clean sealant off the drain threads, but that sounded like no fun at all, so I decided to make it my mission not to get sealant on the threads at all.

Drains with the holes plugged:

And after riveting:

After taking a quick break inside, I came back out and mixed up another batch of sealant to cover all the shop heads with. This batch also finished off my first can of sealant. According to Van’s, it’s possible to seal both tanks with just one can if you’re frugal, but it seems like a stretch to me. I’ve wasted some sealant to be sure, but not enough to do the end ribs and baffles.

Anyway, I put that batch into a bag and went to town on the shop heads (though it occurs to me as I write this that I neglected to get the shop heads on the drains):

Finally, as an aside, I actually had the workbench cleaned off at one point today, which allowed me to reflect on how well-used it looks now that it’s been repetitively stained during the tank-building process:

I also worked on the flop tube. I’d been thinking all along what a pain this was going to be; the tube needs to be safety-wired to the bulkhead fitting, and I’d been imagining all along that I’d have to work inside the tank to do that. It abruptly occurred to be today that I could just put the two pieces together outside the tank and do the safety wiring with plenty of room…so I did it:

That’s it for tonight. I started to go ahead and put the vent lines and other interior stuff in place, but I want to go back tomorrow once the sealant has cured a bit and mash down all the blobs on the shop heads. The vent lines would definitely get in the way of that, so better just to wait. Tomorrow I should be able to get all the interior work done and put the end ribs in place. Next weekend really should be the time to close these things out. I imagine I’ll go ahead and do the access covers to, then let the tanks sit around and cure for a couple of weeks before I do my leak tests.

So once again, riveting didn’t happen tonight, cause Josie had to work late. However, I got a prompt response back from Van’s about the ding I put in the spar, and as I expected, the word was that it was fine to remove the ding and prime the area. So that was what I started on tonight. Fairly simple repair, though being right up against the spar reinforcement bar made it a little tight at times.

The original ding:

First I applied a few layers of painter’s tape to the spar bar to prevent accidentally damaging it:

I started with a flap wheel in the Dremel at low speed, and that made short work of removing most of the ding. But the spar bars prevented me from getting the entire thing with the flap wheel, so I ended up using some 220 emery cloth wrapped around a bucking bar to sand out the rest of the ding:

Next I smoothed and blended the area first with a scotchbrite pace, followed by 600 grit sandpaper:

Then, after a good cleaning with an acetone-soaked rag, I masked the area for priming:

And here we are, good as new. Sort of: (I need to replace that other rivet though, it’s really sitting proud)

After this, I did some general cleanup, and in the course of that, I noticed an amusingly dumb oversight: on one of the left wing Z-brackets, I only riveted one side of the nutplates. Not quite sure what happened that night…

So I pulled that bracket off and squeezed those rivets. Then, since I already had the tools out, I went ahead and unbolted al the other Z-brackets and deburred the rivet holes to the tanks. One more little task out of the way before the tanks get closed.

So yeah, once again, we didn’t get around to actually finishing up the tank riveting today. That was the original plan, but when I went out to remove the last of the clecos from the right tank and clean out the holes, I ran into a problem. I’d estimated that my gallon jug of acetone was about 20% full, but boy, was I wrong. It had about a cup or so left in it. Normally, this wouldn’t be a huge issue – just run to the store and get a new one – but we had a busy day, and we were already sort of cramming in a couple hours for the skin riveting. Throwing in a 20-minute trip to Home Depot seemed like enough to make it smarter to just put it off, so that’s what I did.

Instead, I focused on getting everything as ready as possible for when we finally do do the riveting. I went ahead and cleaned all the remaining holes in the right tank, cleaned up the dimples with a countersink bit, and test-fit rivets in each hole. Next I did a secondary inspection of the left tank – when I went after the proud skin rivets before, I was picky about which ones I’d drill out, since I expected it to be an ordeal, Now that I knew it was much easier than expected, I went back and was more liberal about marking rivets I didn’t like, and I ended up drilling out about ten more. Then I cleaned those dimples with the countersink as well, and test-fit rivets to make sure everything looked good. With that, I set the tanks aside; tomorrow I’ll just need to give them a final acetone cleaning before we start setting them.

The only other thing I wanted to get done today was to rivet in the inboard tank attach bracket nutplates to the left wing spar. I found when doing these on the right wing that back riveting seemed to be the most reliable method, so I did that again here, though the challenge was increased by having to work in the narrow space between wing walk ribs with the rivet gun. Instead of a back rivet plate, I used a tungsten bucking bar, which I had Josie hold in place:

The technique worked fairly well, although one of the rivets sat a little proud. And this was when I made a stupid error. I wanted to try and knock the head down a bit, so I tried hitting it with a flush set – but it was too close to the spar reinforcement bar for me to really get on it. So then I had the “bright” idea of using the back rivet set on the thing. It’s a smaller diameter, with a flush face, much easier to get in tight by the spar bar.

Except I did this:

Yep, a nice little ding in the spar web. Some VAF research indicates that it’s most likely OK to dress the nick out and alodine the newly exposed aluminum, so I think I’m OK here. Still, given that this is the main wing spar, and particularly the inboard portion which will see some of the highest loads, I’ve already sent off an email to Van’s builder support. This is not an area where I’m willing to take the “eh, that looks OK” approach. Again, I’m 99% sure this is OK, but I definitely want a second set of eyes on this.

So here we have yet another recurring lesson: It’s a good idea to take some time and think about these things before just shooting from the hip. That’s when stupid things happen.