Building the light boards, pt II

So first off, the good news: The board that didn’t want to work right last night is now fixed. As planned, I took the board to work and tried testing it with the multimeter in the lab, but that didn’t yield any more new information. Slightly defeated, I spent the rest of the day with the thing sitting on my desk, but an eagle-eyed coworker dropped in, asked about the boards, and after looking for a bit pointed out that one of the LEDs looked to be slightly out of place, in such a way as to maybe cause a short circuit. That idea fit with the evidence I’d seen – no lights, resistors getting super hot under power, and I’d already observed oddly low resistance across that particular LED.

So when I got home tonight, I repositioned that LED a bit. Put power to the board and…well, one string of red LEDs lit up, but not the other. Slight progress at least. Some more testing with the multimeter and I identified another LED that seemed to be shorted. It didn’t look like it visually, but I decided to reposition it anyway. And lo and behold, after that they all lit up!

I could go and solder the resistors onto the other wingtip boards, but they won’t be complete until I can get the two missing LEDs from Paul, so I decided to move on to building the controller board. This board has a few bits already soldered – a few surface mount bits better done in a reflow oven – but everything else is left for the builder. Something like 11 resistors, three capacitors, a diode for fun, the IC socket, a DIP switch, and a D connector for hooking everything up down the road. In some ways the soldering here was easier – nothing dramatic was needed to get it done, unlike working with those big strobe LEDs – but all the pins are super close together, so it’s still a bit tense. But after a couple hours I had myself a completed board (sorry, I forgot to take a “before” photo):

IMG 7148

Even better, it actually worked when tested. Test #1 is to just power up the board and observe the little LEDs on it. The red/green ones represent the wingtip strobes and the yellow one the tail strobe. By observing these you’re seeing when the board would be switching on/off the respective lights. This is a good time to tinker with the various settings (flash rate, number of flashes, flash pattern, wigwag pattern). The other fun test is to put the multimeter in continuity mode and probe the power pins for the wingtip strobes. In this way you can hear the multimeter beep in time with the relevant LED flashing on the board. Somewhat underwhelming in a certain sense, but still cool to see/hear it work. It’ll be really fun when I can put all this stuff together into a test rig of some kind (and probably test it out on the ramp at night).

The only problem I have now is that I don’t have any more good inside work to do, and there’s a whole lot of summer left…I do still have the green boards to do, but it’ll likely be a week and a half before I have those missing LEDs in hand…

Posted in Electrical, Wings | Hours Logged: 2.5

Building the wingtip light boards, pt I

So, after spending a fair amount of my long weekend alternately catching up on work around the house and being lazy in the air conditioning (since the Houston summer has arrived), today I finally got to work building the FlyLEDs boards. I won’t go into a ton of detail about the procedure; anyone who wants details can simply take a look at the really great documentation that Paul has put together online.

On the advice of said documentation, I bought myself a new fancy soldering iron with an actual temperature control (to take the place of my previous El Cheapo Walmart Special or whatever it was). Took a few minutes to get that put together and up and running, but before long I had myself a little workstation going on the kitchen counter:

IMG 7143

First up were the big white LEDs for the strobes. The docs specifically call out that the LEDs and boards tend to soak up a lot of heat, and…man, I found that to be an understatement. The first joint I soldered turned out nice, and I was quite proud of myself. The second one…I could not for the life of me get it up to temperature. I tried different iron positions, double-checked the soldering iron temperature, over and over again, but i could never get the solder to melt anywhere but in actual contact with the tip of the iron. It’d never actually flow into the joint.

I began to grow suspicious of the iron tip I was using, just a regular old pointed tip. Some reading online seemed to lend credence to this maybe being a problem, so on a whim I switched to the other tip that came with the iron, an angled knife tip. This tip was still smaller than the length of the joint I was soldering, so I reasoned that maybe just getting more contact for heat transfer would help.

Boy, was I right about that. Using the knife tip, the joint would get hot enough to flow solder within 5-10 seconds, no problem. After spending probably 20 minutes trying to solder that one stupid joint with the other tip, I knocked out all 22 remaining joints in probably 15.

The small red/green LEDs for the nav lights were a bit more difficult. One nice thing about the white LEDs was that they were large and easy to maneuver. The nav ones are much, much smaller. And since the terminals are also, by extension, smaller, I had to switch back to the original iron tip. This time I made sure it was fully seated, on the off chance that there was an intermittent connection the first time around or something.

This time I had no problems with the soldering; the red lights were done in no time, and I moved on to the green ones, only to find…I was short two LEDs. Well that’s a little bit annoying. So I decided to take a break there and inventory all the other stuff. Everything (else) for the wing boards was there, that was an easy inventory. The control board is a bit more complicated, but there were no missing parts there either. OK good…I’ll just go ahead and solder all the green lights I have, then shoot Paul an email later to see about getting the missing pieces.

Anyway, here are the left (red) boards with all the LEDs in place:

IMG 7146

After a dinner break, I moved on to the resistors (working only on the red boards to start with). Nothing too fancy here. The main fun was getting the resistors spaced off the board as per the instructions for better heat dissipation. I found that my rivet gauges were a great thickness to act as an assembly spacer here. With the resistors in place, then there were just the connection plugs, and I had myself a pair of assembled boards!

Now for the real fun – testing. Paul’s instructions recommend using a 9V battery for testing; enough to light the LEDs but not at full brightness. That, of course, wasn’t good enough for me, especially since I have a perfectly good 12V power supply. I’ll just be really careful to block my direct view of the lights, no problem. (If you’re expecting a story of regret, you won’t get it. My plan actually worked just fine.)

Board 1 nav lights: OK

Board 1 strobe lights: OK (man those are bright)

Board 2 strobe lights: OK

Board 2 nav lights: nothing (BOOOOOOOO)

Obviously polarity is super important with the LEDs, and the instructions suggest that reversing an LED is a common reason for a failed test. This can’t be visually verified with everything together; while the LEDs have little + and – signs on each terminal, those are now covered with solder. But hey, this is why I have a multimeter. Turn it on, go to diode test mode, test a known good diode…hm, nothing. Nothing in either direction, actually. That’s…odd. I went and dug up the manual for the thing just to make sure I wasn’t making any stupid mistakes…nope, by the book. Wait, there’s another diode in the control board kit; I’ll use that as a test. That one I was able to test no problem…um, OK.

Finally, I figured it out…rereading the multimeter instructions, this thing will only measure up to about a 1.5V forward voltage drop, and these LEDs look to be about 1.6V. What followed this was a lot of head scratching and attempts to figure out other ways to check the diodes. Honestly, I think the orientation problem is a red herring – there are six nav LEDs on two separate circuit branches of three each. A reversed LED would cause the other two on its branch to not function, but not affect the other branch. So I would have had to switch an LED on both branches – still possible, but mush less possible than switching only one, I think. I also noticed when I had 12V connected to the nav circuit that the power resistors were heating up, which implies that the circuit was not open as I’d expect with a reversed LED.

So for the moment I don’t know what to make of this, My current plan is to take the bad board in to work with me tomorrow – hopefully we have a better multimeter there that I can use to positively verify the LED orientation. If that doesn’t pan out, then I guess my email to Paul about the missing LEDs will also be begging for some troubleshooting help…

So that’s it for tonight, a weird-isa combination of victory and defeat. We’ll see what tomorrow brings now, I suppose.

Posted in Electrical, Wings | Hours Logged: 4.5

Wingtip light fitting, pt II

Short night again tonight, but I trimmed the other three boards to fit the light coves. Board #1 from last week was where I was timid and took forever, tonight things went a lot faster. It helped that the forward-facing boards didn’t need nearly as much trimming as the outboard ones. Then, after getting the edges cleaned up and nice and smooth, I gave the boards a good wipedown and stuck them back in the box. Maybe tomorrow night I can get started on some soldering!

A quick look at the trimmed boards:

IMG 7139

Posted in Electrical, Wings | Hours Logged: 1

FlyLEDs wingtip light fitting, pt I

Alright, so once again it’s been a couple weeks. You see, a few weekends ago the clutch in Josie’s car gave up the ghost…so of course I said I’d fix it to save her the $1000 mechanic trip…and of course like any good DIY job it stretched out, and out, and out…but hey, the car finally became drivable again as of yesterday.

All that said, the past few weeks haven’t been totally unproductive. Being down to a one-car household got me looking at alternative commute options, which resulted in me trying out the commuter buses here in Houston and…I actually like it, and I haven’t driven to work in about three weeks now. I mention this because I’ve been spending some of my ride time doing airplane-related research. First it was reading through the manual for the VP-X electronic circuit breaker box, and at the moment I’m about 2/3 of the way through Bob Nuckoll’s AeroElectric Connection book.

In short, while this isn’t time I log as build time, the way I figure it I’m keeping my head in the project even when I’m not doing physical work.

Anyway, also a few weeks ago I ordered a kit from FlyLEDs for my wingtip nav/strobe lights (plus a tail unit). I’d been doing some research on lighting options, discovered these kits, and was extremely impressed with what I saw. It was also nice that this kit was less than half the price of the Whelen LED units I’d previously been intending to use at the wingtips. For a bit more money, I could have had Paul assemble them for me, but what’s the fun in that?

So tonight I drug the wingtips down from storage and set about the first bit of work, which is trimming the boards to fit the light coves. The boards are intentionally oversize so they can be hand-fitted and account for manufacturing variances in the wingtips.

Here’s a look at the bare boards laid in place in the wingtips:

IMG 7131

A close-up shows a little better how the board edges are slightly rough and oversize:

IMG 7132

I started with the inboard, um, boards, laying them in place and tracing the outline of the cove using a sharpie. This gave me the starting trim lime:

IMG 7134

From there, I did the initial rough trim using a sanding drum in the Dremel. Rather than move the Dremel around the boards, I clamped it into the vise, making a sort of poor man’s mini bench grinder. It was much easier to carefully manipulate the board around the sanding drum this way. Once I’d done the rough trim this way, I refined and cleaned up the edge with a sanding block. There followed a bit of trial-and-error, comparing the board to the wingtip cove, until I was satisfied with the fit:

IMG 7136

And yes, I only trimmed that one board tonight. Still got four to go. I suspect the board will still need some final trimming when it comes time to fit the plexi lens around the cove, so for the moment I’m stopping myself from obsessing too much over the fit here. And I figure trimming the three remaining boards ought to go a little faster; it’s always slow the first time you try something new, especially when that something new involves removing material from a semi-expensive component you just bought…

Edit: And now as I take a second look at this…particularly that last photo…I realize that I’ve got the lights backwards. The red lights definitely don’t go on the right wingtip. Looks like what I actually mixed up were the forward- and outboard-facing boards. The good news is that the left and right boards appear to be identical, and while the forward and outboard boards house different components, they have the same lighting complement. So I think I’m probably fine to keep going the way I’m going, and just swap the red/green LEDs to get the sides right, but I guess I’ll drop Paul an email just to be sure.

Edit again: OK, after another look, the only difference between the forward and outboard boards is that one of them houses an additional socket for the electrical connections, so the only functional effect of switching the board locations is that that socket will face aft instead of inboard. Clearly that’s no issue, so I’m not going to bother Paul after all.

Posted in Electrical, Wings | Hours Logged: 1

Finished fitting mid cabin covers

Whew…so after a weekend of distractions (and ok, also laziness), I got back to work tonight. The next tasks seemed pretty simple, really. Compared to the left cover, where I had to tinker with the fuel selector mount and locate/cut/drill the appropriate holes for that, I figured I was home free. After all, with the right cover I just had to match-drill the two holes in the auxiliary longeron.

And actually, yeah, that part was easy. Then it was just a matter of drilling the holes for the four nutplates for these four screws. And that is where things got interesting. You see, the one downside to working in this area it that it’s right up against the skin. And the skin is curved in such a way to further limit working space.

Drilling the nut plate mount holes wasn’t bad; in fact, it was pretty quick work with the angle drill. But then came the real fun – countersinking those rivet holes for the flush rivets. For four of the eight rivet holes, I was able to use the countersink cage OK, again by making use of the angle drill attachment (man am I glad I bought that chuck adapter for stuff like this). The other four holes…well, on three of them I got partial countersinks, and the fourth was too close to the skin to get the cage on it.

So I got to finish those three countersinks and make the fourth one entirely by hand. I do have an adapter so I can use the threaded countersink/deburring bits in a normal chuck drill, and I thought maybe I could use that to run the countersink bit in the angle drill attachment, but the shank of the adapter was too big for the chuck adapter. (though it occurs to me as I write this that I might have been able to thread the countersink bit directly into the angle drill attachment. Hooray hindsight!)

So instead my strategy was to hold the bit + adapter in place with one hand and turn the shank (which has a hex profile) with a 1/4” wrench, 1/6 of a turn at a time. I would describe this process as “painstaking.” Just tons of trial-and-error and slow going all rolled into one. I’m pretty sure I spent 15-20 minutes just making that one countersink.

But this was just the beginning. The new problem was how in the world to shoot or squeeze these rivets in these tight quarters. There was absolutely no way I was going to get in there with the rivet squeezer, and it seemed equally impossible to get a rivet gun on these things. Maybe if there’s such thing as an offset flush set for the thing, but if there is such a thing, it’s not in my toolbox.

So I decided to just use blind rivets here. The total material thickness here is actually a bit more than the max grip length for these rivets, so this would be unacceptable for actual structural use. But for securing nutplates, the only purpose of the rivets is to keep the nutplate in place – the screw actually takes all the load. And this is just a cosmetic cover anyway, not any kind of structural piece. Thus I rationalize my departure from best practices in this particular instance.

And that’s it for tonight. Looks like things should be a bit simpler from this point forward – next up will be fitting the front seat ramps, and probably working some more with the rear seat rudder pedal setup, which I did some prep work for before getting the fuselage canoe together, in addition to some more work on the right console and throttle quadrant assemblies. After that, I can get back to working on the rear seat floors.

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 2

Fitting left mid cabin cover

So tonight’s update includes a fun bit of black comedy. Last time out, I’d discovered that I couldn’t use one of the screw locations for the left-hand mid cabin cover because there was already a screw for the fuel selector mount there. I’d also mostly decided to just fab up a new cover so I could relocate that screw hole and not have a random empty hole in the cover.

Well, after thinking it over, I decided to do just that. So tonight, I cut off a section of my junk leading edge skin, traced the outline of the cover, cut the new cover piece out, got all the edges to match up really nicely, cleaned it all up on the bench grinder, and sat back to admire my workmanship. It was actually way easier than I might have expected. All I had to do now was transfer the screw holes from the old cabin cover to the new one.

It was literally the moment I finished drilling the second hole that I cursed, um, kinda loudly. Because the hole I’d just faithfully transferred from the old cover was the one I needed to relocate. Basically, by drilling that hole I eliminated the entire reason for jabbing up a new cover.

I could have made yet another cover, but I decided that maybe the thing to do was to just use the existing cover after all, and deal with the empty hole. It’s not going to be especially visible. And then it occurred to me that there was a much easier solution I could have done from the start: just fill that empty hole with epoxy. The cover’s going to get painted anyway. That at least made me feel a little better.

So with that, I got to prepping the cover, just cleaning up the edges and doing a couple test-fits. Next I marked the location of the new screw hole and drilled it in the cover. Then I screwed the cover in place with a couple of the preexisting holes that already had nutplates, and drilled the two holes in the longerons for the outboard screws. Next, while everything was still held in place, I got under the cover with a sharpie and traced out the cutout and three screw holes for the fuel selector. Off with the cover, drill the three screw holes, and cut out the big center hole. Nothing fancy here, just working with the unibit to get started and finishing the hole with the dremel.

Then it was time for the real test fit…can I actually install the selector? Answer: yes!

IMG 7126

With that done, I removed the cover again, went over to the workbench, and set about filling the unused screw hole. I deburred the hole more than I usually would, in order to create a chamfer on both sides – that should help the bit of epoxy I put in there hold. Then I mixed up the epoxy, set the cover over a piece of wax paper, filled the hole, scraped off thee extra, put another layer of wax paper on top, and capped it off with a piece of lumber and two buckets of clecos. Tomorrow I should have a nice plug…I hope, at least. We’ll find out how well my idea worked then.

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 1.5

More selector stuff

Aaaand here we have yet another instance of “seemingly simple things gone wrong.”

Tonight I had low ambitions; I figured I’d get the selector mount riveted together, temporarily mount it in the fuse, and fit the left mid-cabin cover and get the holes needed for the selector at least marked and maybe even cut/drilled. Doing the riveting wasn’t difficult, as one might expect, though it was a bit more tedious than I expected. (it takes some experimentation to figure out how to hold oddly-shaped parts steady for squeezing rivets)

The fun came when I screwed the selector mount into place. Here it is in all its glory (I clecoed the face plate on just so it’d look a little more like something):

IMG 7122

Now for the mid-cabin cover. Now, here’s the thing with these covers: They basically cover the trapezoidal area seen in the photo above, and mount with screws around the perimeter. The screw holes and nutplates are prepunched on the braces and the spar center section, but the auxiliary longeron (bottom in the photo above) needs to have to screw holes drilled. The cover itself has these holes prepunched, so you just temporarily attach the cover and use it as a guide to drill those holes.

Except for one problem: it turns out that the forward part of my selector mount sits almost exactly where one of those holes has to be drilled:

IMG 7125

So long story short, I can’t use that hole location. Not really a huge deal though, I can just make a new hole in the cover an inch or two forward. But then if I use this prefab cover piece, there will always be that empty screw hole that probably only I will know is there. The good news is that I have material on hand to make a new cover; the covers are the same thickness as the leading edge skins, and I still have by damaged skin sitting around. I figure I’ll just cut a new cover for the left-hand side out of that. Shouldn’t be too hard, the shape of the cover isn’t especially complicated.

But that’ll be a job for another night. And who knows, by then maybe I will have decided that an extra open hole isn’t that bad after all. We shall see…

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 1

Selector mount priming, flap bearing block drilling

Not a ton of activity tonight, just trying to be doing something basically.

I cleaned and primed the parts for the fuel selector mount; well, the angles and spacers at least (no need to prime the alclad mount plate piece). I did the ghetto cleaning; that is, rather than scrubbing with degreaser, I just scuffed the pieces and gave them a good wipe down with acetone. I honestly considered not even priming these parts – they’re not going to be exposed to the weather or anything – but in the end the directive to prime everything that’s not alclad was irresistible.

Then I switched gears to the flap bearing blocks. Now that I had the blocks trimmed and drilled correctly, I fit the flap weldment into the blocks and put the whole assembly into the fuselage. The two rear bolt holes for the blocks are predrilled and already have nutplates installed, so I put bolts in those holes to hold the blocks in place. Then I drilled through the other holes to make the forward bolt holes through the floors and mount angles underneath. Later on I’ll get to drill for nutplates in this semi-confined space and rivet them. Should be fun.

Getting this done was made easy by my new tool I got from Cleaveland. I’ve had my angle drill attachment for ages, but one issue with it is that it only accepts threaded drill bits, which is kinda limiting. In this particular case, using anything but the angle drill would have been tough, and the threaded bits were nowhere near long enough to go through the bearing block and then into the actual stuff that needed drilling. But it turns out you can buy a normal drill chick that threads into the attachment, allowing you to use normal drill bits in the thing. Very handy.

Here’s a look at that assembly – also visible in the background is the flap weldment (the white powder-coated tube):

IMG 7120

Next up, I’ll rivet the fuel selector assembly, get that finally fitted into the fuselage, and then finally pick up with fitting the mid-cabin covers.

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 1

More fuel selector mount stuff

Welp, not the most productive weekend, but hey, I still did stuff.

All my various ordered came in, so I got the bandsaw up and running again. That allowed me to trim the corners off the flap bearing blocks, and since I also got the #10 drill bit, I was able to drill the bolt holes out to the correct size. I kinda stuck the flap linkage and blocks into the fuselage in place, but didn’t do any actual fitting – I wanted too focus on the fuel selector stuff.

On that point, I cut my 1/8” spacer pieces to go between the selector mount plate and the mount angles, got those drilled to match the plate, and then dimpled the plate and countersunk the spacers for flush rivets. I also countersunk the two screw holes I final-drilled in the mid-cabin brace last time out. Oh, and I fitted and drilled the holes for the nutplates in the selector mount angles that will accept the screws I countersunk the mid-cabin brace for.

While working through this stuff, I also got to thinking about how I was going to eventually actually mount the selector. There are three screw holes that go through the selector faceplate and the selector body. The body is already predrilled for nutplates. For some reason I had thought the selector would be screwed to the mount plate, and the large cover plate that covers the space between the aux longeron and mid-cabin braces would only have a hole for the selector shaft to go through. But the selector cover plates has to be on top (since it has the L/R/OFF/ indicators), so I guess the screws will go through all three pieces.

Anyway that left the question of what screws to use here. The holes are 3/16”; AN3 bolts would work here but seem like an odd choice. Maybe pan head AN screws, but I don’t have any of those lying around. I did find some flush head AN screws, maybe those would work. Hm, do I even want non-flush screws here? I assembled the selector and determined there’s room for the selector to move and not interfere with pan head screws, but hey, they might catch my knuckles or something. Eh, I’ll go ahead and use the flush screws.

So I countersunk the face plate for the screws, and riveted the appropriate nutplates to the selector body. Also – keeping in mind last weekend’s experience with “borrowing” hardware and then forgetting about it until way down the road when I needed said hardware – I decided to start a list of “borrowed” hardware. In some cases this isn’t necessary – for example, there are tons of surplus rivets, and probably certain screw sizes, and so forth – but in this case, both the screws and the nutplates are an unusual size that I only have small quantities of, so here I want to note the borrowing I did. Though I’m still not sure how I’ll handle this list – I could add these items to my ongoing shopping list, or I could try and figure out where they’re actually needed. The latter is kinda hard though. I had a slim hope that the electronic plan documents I had would be text-searchable, which would make this super easy, but alas, this was not the case. Oh well.

Anyway, that’s it for this weekend. Next up, now that I have all the selector mount stuff prepped, I want to get them cleaned and primed, and then I can get the selector mount riveted together, at which point I can get back to fitting the cover plates, which was the quick task that started this whole fuel-selector bazaar.

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 3

Mucking around with fuel selector stuff

Not a ton to report tonight. As I may have mentioned previously, I’ve done as much as I can do with the seat floors until I get some stuff resupplied this week. So tonight I skipped ahead to the next approachable section, working with other interior stuff. First order of business here is to fit the two covers that go over where the mid-cabin braces tie the spar carry-through and the gear towers. On the left side, this is where the fuel selector will go, so the first order of business is to finalize the fuel selector mounting.

This is a spot where I diverged from the plans, ditching the cheap factory Van’s selector in favor of a nice billet Andair unit. Many months ago, I cut and fitted the two pieces of angle that bridge between the mid-cabin brace and the auxiliary longeron, and thus provide the mount for the selector. However, it turns out I did that a bit naively – not in a way that causes huge problems or anything, just stuff I have to pause and address now before I can proceed.

Basically, the way I have this mount setup now, there will be a 1/16-1/8” gap between the selector mount plate and the cover. The inconsistency is due to the difference in thickness between the longeron and the brace – the angles for the selector simply nest against the bottoms of those pieces, while the cover will sit on top of them. I could probably leave this as-is and let everything get pulled together when the selector is screwed into place, but that’s just a little too ghetto for me.

So after poking around for a bit, I devised a plan to fix this problem:

  • On the brace side (thinner than the longeron), fabricate ~0.1” thick spacers to sit between the selector angles and the bottom of the brace. With these in place, the top side of the selector mount angles should be recessed the same amount from the top of both the longeron and the brace.
  • Fabricate two ~1/8” thick spacers to sit on top of the angles, between them and the piece of sheet Al to which the selector itself will mount. These spacers will place that piece of sheet very close to level with the tops of the brace and longeron.

Between those two actions, I should solve my misalignment problem here. Now I just have to actually make this stuff. From a quick survey tonight, I think I have material on hand to make these spacers, but I can’t really cut the thick stuff easily until…I get the bandsaw going again. So here we are back to the part where I’m waiting on stuff.

In any case, by this time it was getting late, so I called it a night. I think I’m in good shape at this point to start putting this plan into effect for my next work session.

Posted in Fuselage | Hours Logged: 1